Charcuterie Board for a Seafood Town


Caroline Hatchett
Chef Francisco Millan's Smoked and Cured Board at Row 34 - Boston, MA
Chef Francisco Millan's Smoked and Cured Board at Row 34 - Boston, MA

Boston is a seafood town, and there’s no clearer expression of fish dominance than Row 34’s Smoked and Cured Board, a dizzying array salt- and smoke-laced fish and shellfish. “Chef Jeremy Sewall and I were talking about ways to differentiate ourselves from our sister restaurant, Island Creek Oyster Bar, and other oyster bars in the area. I thought of ways to use up fish scrap, heads, and other miscellaneous items and thought of charcuterie,” says Chef de Cuisine Francisco Millan. About 50 percent of the board is made of scrap (salmon rillettes, fluke mousseline, and tilefish terrine), helping balance out food cost for items that come from whole muscles (smoked salmon, char lox, and citrus-cured mackerel). “My sous chefs and I prepare items daily—smoked uni, smoked scallops, and smoked shrimp—and plan out the curing process for the upcoming weeks to make sure we follow appropriate curing schedules,” says Millan. “The prep is an all-around team effort.” Row 34 typically sells 10-plus boards a night at $21. That’s not a lot to cash for the wow factor it delivers, not to mention its role in reducing waste, keeping cooks engaged, and displaying Boston’s full-on seafood dominance.

Monkfish Liver Mousse
1. Soak 1 pound monkfish livers in milk 6 hours, or overnight.
2. Drain livers, transfer to a towel, and air dry in the walk-in.
3. In a pan over high flame, heat vegetable oil. Season and sear livers on both sides.
4. Transfer pan to a 350˚F oven and cook to medium rare.
5. Return pan to stovetop, add 3 thinly sliced shallots and 3 cloves thinly slices garlic, and cook until shallots are translucent.
6. Deglaze with ¼ cup bourbon, add 3 sprigs thyme, and reduce slightly.
7. Transfer contents of pan to a food processor, season with Espelette, and blend, slowly adding 8 ounces tempered butter.
8. When emulsified, pass mousse through a fine tamis.

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