Killin' It with Carrots: When Veg Upstages Protein at Chicago's Publican

By

Jessica Yoon
Megan Swann
Barbecued Carrots, Pecans, Creamy Herb Dressing, and Dill
Barbecued Carrots, Pecans, Creamy Herb Dressing, and Dill

When former full-time butcher-turned-chef Cosmo Goss—also known as the “Prince of Pork”—starts treating vegetables as he does meat at The Publican in Chicago, it means foregoing the usual delicacy for rough handling and extreme heat. The result? Powerful dishes like his charred carrots that stand strong even after a double hit from a garlic-centric BBQ spice. The carrots get blanched in a heavily seasoned pot of water and then rubbed down with the same spice mix before hitting a hot grill. “The grill helps them take on a meaty flavor,” says Goss. The only element that hints to its former life as a wimpy side-dish is the luscious splash of yogurt-buttermilk dressing (essentially a dill-laced ranch). While the majority of Publican’s menu continually evolves, the carrots “are the one thing that hasn’t left in over a year,” says Goss. He’s even bringing the dish to Philadelphia this fall for an Osteria-Publican restaurant swap—a powerful statement for Chicago’s “Prince of Pork.” 

 

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